Shave Soap Recipe – How to Make Dual Lye Tallow Shave Soap

I’ve been working on an excellent shave soap recipe. The men’s grooming industry is booming! Men are starting to spend some serious dough on skincare products. Men are going back to wet shaving using shave soap and a shave brush! Benjamin has been wet shaving for awhile now, so it is time for me to make him some soap. We love purchasing shave soap from others in our industry and have bought wonderful shave soap from Fairhope Soap Company, Breezy Quarters, and Soap Commander. All create great artisan shave soap!

Free Download – Essential Oil Blends for Men’s Grooming Products

Before we get started, I’ve got a free gift for you! It can be hard to come up with essential oil blends for the fellas! So I want to help you out! I’ve put together a list of essential oils for more masculine blends and then I share my favorite 16 essential oil blends for men! Enjoy!

Get Your Free Download!

Dual Lye Shave Soap

This shave soap recipe is made using dual lye. I used both potassium hydroxide (60%) and sodium hydroxide (40%). Potassium salts are more soluble than sodium salts. This contributes to a rich and easy lather buildup for shaving.

shave soap recipe

How to Formulate a Shave Soap Recipe

I did some research to formulate this shave soap recipe. Some of my favorite resources for research are wet shave forums like Badger And Blade. They are so much fun to read! People share lots of trial and error. It is fun seeing everyone’s shave of the day and to hear what they like and don’t like about a shave soap that they tried. At the end of the day, people like different types of shave soap. You might have to experiment to get your shave soap the texture that you want.

The ultimate goal when creating shave soap is to create a dense and stable lather.

diy shave soap

Here are some tidbits that I learned from my research:

  • Don’t use olive oil. Olive oil’s lather is not ideal for shaving. I’m going to go a step further and say don’t use any other liquid oil (besides castor oil).
  • Skip the clay! So many soap makers use clay in their shave soap for slip. I’ve learned that many serious wet shavers do not like clay in their soap. It can dull blades and just isn’t needed.
  • Use high stearic oils and butters for most of the recipe. Stearic acid is excellent for the bulk of your recipe. Butters and tallow/lard are next. If you are palm-free, try soy wax, which has a high amount of stearic.
  • You’ll want lots of coconut oil to create large fluffy lather.
  • Castor oil is great in shave soap because it creates a more soluble soap…same with glycerin.

So using some of these rules and reading the INCI labels on some popular shave soaps, I created this recipe. I have a few more recipes coming soon including one with 100% KOH. I am in full experimental mode and hope to compare them all in a blog post coming in the next couple of months.

If you don’t like animal fats, simply remove the tallow and use more stearic/coconut/shea.

Stearic acid is derived from palm oil and coconut oil and I know I have lots of followers who are palm free. Try subbing in soy wax. Most suppliers don’t specify if their stearic acid is from palm or coconut. I wish a supplier would source a coconut-derived stearic acid. Lush is trying to get their supplier to produce a coconut-derived stearic acid, so that is good news to us if it catches on. If you know of one, please post in the comments!

I used a 5% superfat. Summer Bee Meadow has a lye calc that allows you to use both KOH and NaOH in a recipe.

Duel Lye Tallow Shave Soap Recipe

  • Stearic Acid – 8 oz.
  • Shea Butter – 4 oz.
  • Coconut Oil – 8 oz.
  • Tallow – 5 oz.
  • Castor Oil – 4 oz.
  • Glycerin – 4.35 oz. (15% of oils)
  • Sodium Hydroxide – 2.06 oz.
  • Potassium Hydroxide – 3.10 oz.
  • Sodium Lactate – 2 oz. (helps the soap stay fluid)
  • Water – 25.8 oz. (five times total lye)
  • Lime Essential Oil – 1 oz.
  • Cypress Essential Oil – .5 oz.
  • Patchouli Essential Oil – .5 oz.

Step 1: Weigh out the stearic acid and set to melt using a double boiler.

stearic acid for shave soap

Step 2: Weigh out 25.8 oz. of water.

Step 3: Weigh out both the sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide together.

caustic-soda

Step 4: In a well-ventilated area, pour the lye into the water while stirring. Weigh the sodium lactate and add to the lye solution.

duel-lye-solution

Step 5: Weigh out the glycerin and castor oil into a crock pot. Set on high to heat up.

Step 6: Weigh out the shea butter, tallow and coconut oil.

oils-shave-soap

Step 7: Once the stearic acid is melted, add the solid butters/oils to melt. This lowers the melt point of the stearic and makes it more manageable to mix.

melting-oils

Step 8: Once all of the base oils are melted, add to the crock pot. Mix.

stearic-acid-shave-soap

Step 9: Add your lye solution to the base oils.

duel-lye-shave-soap

Step 10: Mix to trace. The soap will go through a couple of different stages while mixing.

It will start out looking like applesauce.

blending-shave-soap

Then it will thicken up like mashed potatoes.

shave-soap-mixture

Next, it will loosen up again.

loose-soap

Last it will thicken up like taffy.

shave-soap-cook

Once you get to taffy stage, let it cook until it is neutral. I tongue tested it to see if it is neutral. If you haven’t done that before, it is easy. Simply take some soap out of the crock pot. Blow on it to cool it off. Touch it with your tongue and see if it zaps you. If it doesn’t, it is probably cooked to neutral.

Step 11: Once the soap is neutral, add your essential oil and mix.

My soap was super-thick! It was hard to mix in the EO. I just chunked and mixed and glopped it as best I could.

The soap was definitely not pour-able at this point. I had to scoop it out into balls and flatten them into the mold.

shave-paste

shaving-soap

CAUTION: The soap can be very hot at this stage! I could touch it until I got to the very bottom where the soap was touching the crock pot. Use a spoon and glop it into the mold. Then you can use a cup bottom to smoosh it down.

wet-shaving-soap-recipe

So how can you get more fluid soap? You can use more water, glycerin, yogurt…etc. However, it will take longer for the soap to cure. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different liquid amounts. You’ll definitely want a more fluid soap if you are creating larger batches.

I’m actually quite happy with this soap even though it was so thick when molding. It hardened up in an hour so I could unmold and set to cure fast.

how to make shave soap

I plan to cure it for 4 weeks, but wanted to try it out after 1 week to see how it is doing! So I grabbed my husband and had him give it a go. He LOVED this soap. The lather was simply amazing and stayed forever. This is a recipe to add to my regular lineup.

Check out this lather!

handmade shave soap

wet shave soap

shaving soap recipe

shaving soap recipe

This lather isn’t going anywhere! We set it by the sink and the next day, it was still standing. ๐Ÿ™‚

shave soap

I think our shave soap turned out really well! I hope you give it a try.

best shave soap

Happy Shave Soaping!

-Amanda Gail

Don’t forget your free download!

Free Download – Essential Oil Blends for Men’s Grooming Products

Before we get started, I’ve got a free gift for you! It can be hard to come up with essential oil blends for the fellas! So I want to help you out! I’ve put together a list of essential oils for more masculine blends and then I share my favorite 16 essential oil blends for men! Enjoy!

Get Your Free Download!

Did you enjoy this tutorial? Please share it on Pinterest, Facebook or Twitter! ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you!

About the Author:

I am a soapmaker, author and blogger! I started blogging in 2008, sharing soap recipes, design tutorials and publishing articles on various topics of soapmaking.

51 Comments

  1. Tanya November 20, 2017 at 8:47 pm - Reply

    Hello, I tried this on the weekend and could not get it past the taffy stage nor to neutralize after 4 hours of cooking. Is the lid suppose to be on or kept off the slow cooker whilst baking it off. I want to try it again this weekend and I’m hoping for any extra tips to try. Thx

  2. Nancy November 8, 2017 at 12:52 am - Reply

    Looking forward to making this recipe. Thanks so much for posting! But please, please, please, can you make your posts available in a printer friendly format?

  3. Maria Martino October 9, 2017 at 1:50 am - Reply

    I’m in the process of making this recipe and was wandering just roughly how long is the cooking time before I test it with my tongue? thank you

  4. Rob September 29, 2017 at 1:55 pm - Reply

    Hi – thanks for the article, this looks simple enough for even me lol. Any idea how I’d recreate a sea salt scent? I’ve been on several Disney cruises and they have a sea salt shampoo that has an unbelievable scent. I want my face to smell like that!

  5. Bastard Beard Company Review May 11, 2017 at 4:39 pm - Reply

    Hello there, just became alert to your blog through Google, and found that
    it is truly informative. I am gonna watch out for brussels.
    I’ll be grateful if you continue this in future. Lots of people will be
    benefited from your writing. Cheers!

  6. Kris March 23, 2017 at 1:04 pm - Reply

    Thanks for the recipe! Can goats milk be used in place of the water? I would love to use our goats milk in it.
    Thanks

    • Amanda Gail March 30, 2017 at 4:23 am - Reply

      Kris, I haven’t tried it but I think it would work. ๐Ÿ™‚

  7. Laury February 13, 2017 at 11:27 am - Reply

    Can you use “bee’s wax” rather than soy wax??

  8. Barb January 31, 2017 at 7:55 am - Reply

    Thank you for sharing your recipes and knowledge with us! Question though – I have tried 3 different lye calculators and I can’t seem to match your amounts for KOH and NaOH with any of them. Can you tell me what the superfat is for this recipe and recommend a lye calc? Thank you!

  9. Jennifer Ann Young January 16, 2017 at 9:48 pm - Reply

    I have made a shaving soap once before and it worked well. My husband loves it and wants me to make some more. I am going to try your recipe and wanted to know what you thought about adding Tussah Silk and maybe Lanolin? Maybe menthol crystals?

    are there any negative effects from using aloe instead of water?

    • kathie marvel January 17, 2017 at 6:39 am - Reply

      Will there be a CP version recipe of your shave soap??

      Thank you.

  10. Libby Kilmartin January 2, 2017 at 9:45 am - Reply

    Hi! This will be my first time making shaving soap and hp soap. I was wondering if I could use Goats Milk in replace of water?

  11. Lisa December 30, 2016 at 5:20 pm - Reply

    How long do you cook it for? I’ve been cooking for a hour on low and still have not reached the taffy stage?

  12. kathie marvel December 27, 2016 at 5:43 am - Reply

    When does the CP version of this recipe become available?? Thank you

  13. Lisa December 26, 2016 at 8:58 pm - Reply

    I tried this today and was able to spoon it into Pringles containers, banging the can on the table after every three scoops. Worked great and it is the same diameter of the bowl my friend uses. Thanks for the recipe!

  14. kathie marvel December 24, 2016 at 5:37 am - Reply

    Could you substitute the stearic acid with something else?? And if you allow the pucks to dry or cure doesn’t that take away any lather capabilities??

    Great tutorial!!

    Kathie

  15. Carly Low December 15, 2016 at 2:28 am - Reply

    Just curious Amanda if I can substitute the stearic acid and sodium lactate or leave them out? I sell my soaps as all natural so I’m not sure those ingredients would fit into my branding. I’m really wanting a good Shave soap though!

  16. Melinda December 14, 2016 at 5:35 pm - Reply

    I just made this, and tested a bit of what I scraped out of the crock pot before cleaning it up. The lather was amazing. My hands felt soft and smooth after using it. I can’t wait to have my husband try it for shaving. Hopefully I have finally found something to get rid of the canned crap he currently uses. Lol. I used aloe instead of water. That was the only change I made.

    • Lisa December 30, 2016 at 5:21 pm - Reply

      How long did you cook it for?

  17. Lisa December 13, 2016 at 4:25 pm - Reply

    Usually you put your super fat inwhen you add your essential Oils on but you didn’t put in any? Did you use some and not listed on the recipe? I making shave so probably men in my family for Christmas and just wanted to make sure I had all the ingredients correct

  18. Michele December 12, 2016 at 6:54 pm - Reply

    Just made this EARLY this morning and I LOVE IT! Thanks for the great recipe and step by step. I told my husband that he won’t go back to foam in a can ever again once he tries this. I have many ‘pucks’ curing now and only tried a small scrap because I COULDN’T wait, lol. I pinned to my “for men” board on Pinterest, thanks again. This will be gifts for my sisters as well as hubby and sons because my legs felt so silky smooth after using it.

  19. Sally December 3, 2016 at 3:21 pm - Reply

    Hi, Amanda, thanks for sharing. I love your posts!! I have been asked to make an old fashioned shave soap in a stick form. Would this recipe work?

  20. YPure soaps December 2, 2016 at 11:21 am - Reply

    I really enjoyed this. I really look forward to the CP version and no Tallow use.
    Thank you for all this sharing!
    But why the dual KOH and NaOH. what does ti offer to the consistency.

    • GJones July 9, 2017 at 11:09 am - Reply

      So from what I understand, the dual use of both Sodium and Potassium lye is common with shaving soaps. KOH provides a dense and stable lather, but you end up with a very soft soap. So they also use NaOH, to make a hard soap that can be handled and stored easily.

  21. Sally December 1, 2016 at 2:45 am - Reply

    HI. thank you for sharing the shaving recipe. I’ve made some shaving soap before using clay, it had a nice slip but the lather wasn’t that great. Anyway, I was excited to make your recipe because it looked so lush. After making two trips to the supplier and spending a bit of time converting imperial to metric(I’m in NZ), I was all set to go. I then realized I didn’t have any sodium lactate. Dilemma!!! do I omit or substitute and then what could I use. After spending way to long on research, I finally settled for lactic acid. I used 10g which i blended with 20gms of my water allowance. I added it to the warm oils before I added the lye mixture.

    The paste went through all of the stages you mentioned, now it’s the waiting game, fingers crossed.

    • Carly Low December 15, 2016 at 2:24 am - Reply

      Hi Sally (I’m also in NZ!) wanting to give this a try and curious how it worked using lactic acid instead of stearic?

  22. Teresa November 27, 2016 at 12:05 pm - Reply

    HI Amanda
    When you say Glycerin, is it liquid vegetable g like the one I use on lotions or is it melt and pour?
    Also, let’s say I’ll sub tallow with palm< do I need to recalculate?
    Thanks!
    Teresa

    • Amanda Gail November 27, 2016 at 12:18 pm - Reply

      Great questions! yes, liquid glycerin.
      And if you sub tallow with palm, you’ll need to re-run it through a lye calc. ๐Ÿ™‚

  23. Nancy November 22, 2016 at 5:03 pm - Reply

    Hi! Thank you for this recipe. I made it last week and put it in Mason jars to gift. I’m a little worried because it didn’t get as hard as your soap batter did before I put it in the jars. I zap tested it and the soap was done, but still a taffy like consistency after a long cook. Did I do something wrong? It’s dry in the jars, but just wondering I may have missed a step if it stayed taffy like.

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 7:27 pm - Reply

      Hi Nancy! Actually I think you’re fine. A few people have done the same and it worked out.

      • Nancy November 25, 2016 at 12:05 pm - Reply

        Yay! Thank you! My husband really likes this recipe! He gets to try all my recipes first. I love your site too!

  24. Kimberly November 22, 2016 at 10:17 am - Reply

    When you say to sub Soy Wax, do you mean soy candle wax? Where can I buy the soy wax you recommend, online? I’m getting my ingredients ready to make this and am excited!

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 7:30 pm - Reply

      Yes, same as what you would use for candle wax. I think wholesalesuppliesplus.com has soy wax. Candle Science has it also. Some soy waxes are mixed with other oils to make it have a lower melt point, look for 100% soy wax.

  25. Terri November 22, 2016 at 1:00 am - Reply

    This is exactly what I was looking for. My husband will love it! He thought I was crazy when I asked him to save me all the fat trimmings when he helped me process some beef. This will be the perfect thank you for the tallow he helped me make. Thanks for sharing.

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:22 am - Reply

      Great! I hope it goes well! He will love it. ๐Ÿ™‚

  26. Beth November 19, 2016 at 9:35 pm - Reply

    Made this a week ago and tested it today. I love it and can hardly wait for the rest of the curing time. Thank you so much for sharing!

  27. Carly Low November 18, 2016 at 3:02 pm - Reply

    Can you make in a normal pot if you don’t have a crockpot/slow cooker? Will pH strips work to test the levels if you don’t want to use your tongue?

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:27 am - Reply

      Yes, you can use a double boiler type of setup. I don’t use pH strips as I don’t think they’re accurate with soap. The tongue test is super easy to do and very accurate.

  28. Tori November 15, 2016 at 12:44 pm - Reply

    This is great! I have been playing around with a shave bar recipe and not happy yet. Will def give this a try! Do you have a good source for the shave bowls and brushes to put together Christmas gift sets? Thank you!

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:26 am - Reply

      We always bough shave bowls from local artists. Maybe you can partner with a local artist?

  29. K.Young November 14, 2016 at 1:02 pm - Reply

    Great article! Two questions: Can this’s be made cold process? Would Aloe liquid (not gel) work better for sensitive skin?

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:25 am - Reply

      I haven’t tried it as a CP soap. It gets thick super fast. Aloe liquid would be great!

  30. Melissa Jensen November 7, 2016 at 12:54 pm - Reply

    Will lard and tallow have the same values, or should I re-run the recipe?

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:24 am - Reply

      I would re-run it through a lye calc, but I’m thinking it will be super close.

  31. Marilyn Schendel October 31, 2016 at 8:01 pm - Reply

    Amanda since Palm Oil has also been called veggie tallow can it be substituted for the tallow you used ? Love that lather!

    • Amanda Gail November 4, 2016 at 7:51 am - Reply

      Yes, you can sub in palm oil. ๐Ÿ™‚

  32. Christina October 31, 2016 at 1:12 pm - Reply

    Can this recipe be done as a cold process soap or only as a hot process soap?

    • Amanda Gail November 22, 2016 at 8:23 am - Reply

      I haven’t tried doing it as a cold process soap. It gets thick really fast so you’d have a small window to pour.

  33. Henry October 27, 2016 at 6:32 am - Reply

    Your mention of Fairhope Soap Company reminded me how little I know about my area. Then again, I don’t go across the bay that often. If you’ve never been to Fairhope, it’s a charming smallish town.

  34. Joan Broughton October 26, 2016 at 8:45 am - Reply

    Thanks for sharing a great experiment. I loved that you used both potassium & sodium hydroxide. The lather looks amazing!

  35. Soap Commander October 26, 2016 at 7:07 am - Reply

    Thank you for including us in your article and for supporting fellow artisans.

Leave A Comment